Sandeman Free Walking Tour -- Copenhagen

I love these tours -- absolutely adore them. I've now taken the free walking tours in Madrid, Berlin, Dublin, and Copenhagen, and they've all been superb. Here are a few pictures from the tour today:

Copenhagen's Town Hall -- where the tour commenced. 

In the Town Hall Square

Tivoli is the amusement park Walt Disney visited for his own theme park inspiration. Or so my Irish guide would have me believe. It has the oldest wooden roller-coaster in the world, though -- an ancient structure from 1914. 

Hans Christian Anderson. In Denmark, he's referred to H.C. Anderson. As my guide was not Danish,  he was very confused about this for his first few months here. According to him (please correct me if I'm wrong), the Danish language pronounces  H as "HO" and C as "SAY". So the poor Irishman thought that the Danes were constantly referencing their famous author, "Jose Anderson." Which didn't sound remotely Danish, oddly enough. 

Some volunteers demonstrating the geography of Denmark. I volunteered in Madrid and had to enact one of the many King Ferdinands dying of dysentery, so I decided to sit this one out. It was harmless enough, though. We just had Jutland, Copenhagen, some port, and a bridge to Sweden.  

A memorial to the 2000 Danish navy men who lost their lives when they sunk their own ships to keep them from falling into the hands of the Germans. 

This used to be a very sketchy area of Copenhagen -- where all the sailers would land to drink, gamble, and spend the night in one of the many brothels. It ended up getting so bad that even sailers stopped going. At this all time low,  the brothels were turned into restaurants and cafes, and a party was thrown. Thus the sketchy side of town became the trendy, touristy side of town. 

One of the "lighthouse" boats. 

Hans Christian Anderson lived here during the time it was full of brothels. 

I used to poke fun at Alex because of the simplicity of the Danish flag, but it's actually the oldest flag in the world, so it has a good reason to be simple. It's kind of a prototype. The mother flag. ;) 

A magnificent, 500 million euro opéra house. 

I can't quite remember which famous king this is...

This ship was in England during WWII, so it is the only Danish battleship to survive. It's now a museum. 

A miniature, ancient Copenhagen.

Copenhagen at Christmas

I’m starting this post from the lime green sofa in Svetlana’s stylish, well organized, little Copenhagen apartment. There are bookshelves full of travel guides and Michael Pollan on my right, a record player with Ella Fitzgerald on my left, excellent coffee in the kitchen, and plenty of space for my yoga mat at the foot of the lime green sofa. I’m feeling very much at home.

My flight into Copenhagen was easy and uneventful. It just involved a two-hour bus ride to the airport (wherein I got lost several times whilst dragging my suitcase through the pissing rain and experienced the very cliché situation of a conductor asking me, “Are you lost?” me saying, “Terribly,” and the conductor flashing a ka-ching smile and uttering a, “Not for long – where do ye want to go?”). Upon finally arriving at the airport, I checked in, and passed through security (having to part with a pair of forgotten knitting scissors that set off the alarm), and found my gate in record time, only to discover that my flight had been delayed twenty minutes and the gate had been changed. But a very nice Irish woman went to figure things out and gave me “sweeties” in the meantime (Cadbury chocolate drops), so I have no complaints.

Nina picked me up at the airport and we boarded the train that would take us out of the airport and into the center of Copenhagen. We then boarded a bus that would drop us just outside Svetlana’s apartment.  I think it was the first time I’d ever been on a plane, a train, and a bus in one day – and it was only from Dublin to Copenhagen. So even though I’d traveled a relatively short distance, I was still completely knackered by the time Nina unlocked Svetlana’s apartment door and we threw my bags down on the floor. After explaining a few apartment essentials, setting up the bedding, giving me 500 kroner for food, and writing down Svetlana’s address (for me to keep about my person like a dog tag), Nina retired to her apartment.

And I promptly plopped myself down on the lime green (or avocado) sofa with an expression of utter exhaustion, complete happiness, and mild bewilderment – wondering how in the world I’ve managed to end up in such a beautiful place with such lovely people for the holidays.

Feeling a bit embarrassed about how poorly I travel (I looked like a hooligan when I arrived), I decided to wash all my clothes and take a bath first thing in the morning. This was a remarkably silly thing to do however, because as there are no dryers in Europe, I had to wait for the rest of the day for my clothes to be dry enough to wear (of course I washed all my warm clothes at once. Duh.) So I was grounded for the rest of the day as I waited for my clothes to dry on the line near the heater. I spent the afternoon practicing French and knitting a hat for Nina.

After Nina finished work at the hospital, she contacted me via Facebook and arranged to meet up for some grocery shopping and Christmas party cooking. We finished the shopping as planned, but on the way out of Irma, she made the spontaneous decision to forgo the chocolate cake and meet a few of her friends for Christmas balls assembly.

Christmas balls have a name in Danish, but I really can’t remember it.  I chopped a lot of figs and apricots, and chocolate weaseled its way into just about everything (which no one resented). And there was marzipan. An abundance of marzipan.

I made a carrot cake for Nina’s Christmas party the next morning. As a few people have asked for the recipe I used, I’ll add it here:

Ultimate Carrot Cake


adapted from The Essential Baker via Zoe Bakes

Ingredients:

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour


1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder


1 teaspoon baking soda


1 teaspoon ground cinnamon


1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
(I used a tablespoon of freshly grated ginger)

1/2 teaspoon salt


1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg


4 extra large eggs, at room temperature


1 1/2 cups sugar


1 cup canola oil
 (I used melted butter)

1/2 cup buttermilk
(I just used milk)

2/3 cups firmly packed brown sugar
 (I used ½ cup honey)

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract


1/2 cup crushed pineapple, drained


1 pound finely grated carrots


1 cup toasted chopped pecans


1 cup golden raisins


1 batch Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Prepare two 9-inch cake pans by lightly coating with oil and lining with parchment paper.

Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, salt and nutmeg together in a bowl.  Set aside.

Mix the eggs, sugar, oil, buttermilk, brown sugar, vanilla, and pineapple together in a large bowl.   Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients and mix until fully incorporated.   Stir in the carrots, pecans and raisins just until evenly distributed throughout the batter.

Pour the batter into the prepared pans and bake on the center rack for about 35-40 minutes, or until a toothpick or cake tester comes out clean.

Cool cakes in their pans for at least 30 minutes before attempting to remove them.  Then, removed from the pans and peel off the parchment paper.  Continue to cool the cakes completely before frosting.

To assemble the cake, place the bottom layer on a cardboard round or other flat surface and put on a cake turntable. Scoop about 1 1/2 cups of the cream cheese icing onto the top of the bottom cake layer.  Using an offset spatula, spread the frosting evenly over the surface.  Carefully place the second layer on top.  Scoop another 1 1/2 cups or so of the frosting on the top of the cake and spread evenly, easing the frosting down the sides.  Spread the icing around the sides of the cake, adding more as needed.  Lift the cake off the turn table and place on a cake stand or platter and chill a bit to firm up the frosting before slicing.

SGCC’S Favorite Cream Cheese Frosting

Ingredients:

16 ounces cream cheese, softened


4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened


2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract


1 teaspoon orange extract (I just used orange zest and a bit more grated ginger)


3-4 cups confectioners’ sugar to taste

Directions:

Beat cream cheese and butter together until smooth.  Add extracts and beat just until incorporated.  Beat in sugar, one cup at a time, until frosting has the flavor and consistency you want.  You may not need to add all of the sugar.

Here’s my version:

I did end up dropping the cake lid several times on the way to Nina’s apartment, so it looked nothing like this upon arrival, but at least I have the picture. After putting the tousled looking cake in the fridge, I helped decorate the house and prepare several delicious canapés. The guests arrived a bit late, so everything was on the table and ready to go by the time the doorbell started to ring. Nina has a lovely group of friends, but I had a difficult time understanding most of the conversation. I was the only non-Danish speaker there, so most of the conversation was in Danish. Which makes sense. I just wish I had a better ear for that language – I can’t even tell where a word starts and stops. It all blends together for me, and I can’t pick out an iota of meaning besides the occasional “Tak” – which means “thank-you.” I think. Alex once showed me how things are spelled in Danish, and I think my brain froze. It still hasn’t defrosted.

The next day I met with Monika (a friend of the Maenchen family) for coffee and a walk. She showed me around the food market, took me to a bookstore, and introduced me to the best coffee in Copenhagen. It was extremely good coffee.

Best coffee in Copenhagen -- Coffee Collective

This is a very popular Christmas drink -- it's warm, spiced wine with raisins and almonds. I like it because you get to use a spoon. :)

After dropping me back at Svetlana’s, Monika went out to do some of her own Christmas shopping. In Denmark, all the stores shut down for three days this time of year – the 24^th, the 25^th, and the 26^th. So people have to be very well prepared, as there are no last minute shopping runs in this country.

After making myself a late lunch in Svetlana’s well-equipped kitchen, I meandered over to Nina’s apartment. Now that I know where I’m going, it’s an extremely pleasant 15-minute walk.  Nina bought me a Tom Robbins book I’ve been dying to finish for the past 4 months, two pairs of ballet flats, and a ticket to see 50/50 (which isn’t a movie to get one into the Christmas spirit, but is an excellent film).  Copenhagen is beautifully decorated this time of year, so just walking down the clean, stylish, festooned streets was a pleasure.

Christmas in Denmark takes place on the 24th as opposed to the American tradition of the 25th -- so Nina and I took the train (and the bus) to get to Nina's grandmother's apartment outside of Copenhagen at about 1:00 yesterday afternoon. Nina's father and grandmother were cooking duck and pork in the kitchen, and the living room table was nearly invisible, buried beneath all the chocolate, licorice, fruit, nuts, and cake (I ate so much. My god).

Nina put on the TV, and we watched several different Christmas shows as we waited for the meat to finish cooking. I felt a bit awkward sitting down and doing nothing as Nina's family worked in the kitchen, but I was assured that there was nothing I could do to help, so I sat back and relaxed. And gnawed away at chewy, salty licorice (a very odd tasting, common candy here).

Nina's grandmother finally sat down. I think this was when the ghost of Christmas present was appearing to Ebenezer. 

Christmas crackle. This is a big part of Christmas dinner in Denmark. Nina says that it comes up quite frequently in post Christmas conversation. "How was your Christmas?" "It was good, but my crackle wasn't quite right. Oh well."  

The Christmas almond! One whole almond is hidden in a bowl of cream with a fruit preserve on top. Whoever finds the almond gets a present. I totally found the almond. And it totally WASN'T rigged. 

 After enjoying the almond dessert, we passed out the presents. I gave Nina the hat I'd made, and she gave me a stunning beige trench coat (from the entire family). It fits perfectly and it's exactly what I needed for France. I feel so ridiculously lucky. 

So, that was Christmas in Copenhagen. I missed my family and friends in Colorado, but the Maenchen family in Denmark made this holiday a wonderful, warm, unforgettable experience. Thanks go everyone, and Merry Christmas!

Survival Guide for Vagabonding Ireland

Survival guide for vagabonding Ireland 

(to be edited as my travels continue)

• Never drink tea or coffee by yourself. If you visit anyone, anywhere in Ireland, you will be offered both. Develop your caffeine tolerance accordingly.
• Cookies are called biscuits. Just like Kleenex are called tissues. If you ask for a cookie with your coffee, they will generally assume you want a specific brand of biscuit.
• Don’t look down upon the tiny tea/coffee cups people will offer you here. In the States, I’m very much attached to my tea/coffee mugs that are larger than my head and have room for both of my hands to wrap all the way around them on chilly mornings. It was never a problem because I’d drink my large cup of coffee in the morning and move on to the more benign, herbal varieties (I've heard the Irish call it “hippie tea”) for the rest of the day. Herbal tea is not a particularly sought after infusion in Ireland, so you will most likely be offered Earl Grey or Barry’s Gold when inevitably invited in for tea. So don’t turn up your nose at the tiny, delicate teacups, but appreciate them as the useful pacing devices they are. 
• Drink your tea, coffee, and alcohol slowly. Irish hospitality will not stand for an empty cup. If you don’t want more than one drink of aforementioned beverages, leave at least half an inch at the bottom of your cup until a few minutes before you plan to leave.
•  If you put the kettle on, always offer the rest of the people within earshot a cup of tea or coffee. I’ve even heard of people going next door to ask their neighbors if they want tea when they’re putting the kettle on. Always ask if they take milk or sugar.
• If you are in the south or the west of Ireland, you will most likely be drinking Barry’s tea. If you are in Dublin, you will be drinking Lyon’s.  There is a fierce rivalry over which brand is better (particularly on the part of a Barry drinker – they bring teabags with them on vacation), so I suggest a somewhat reserved neutrality on the subject.
• If you’re a celiac in Ireland and want to enjoy a night at the pub without getting exponentially more inebriated than your fellow pub-goers, drink a pint of Bulmers to their pint of Guinness.
• People in the north and the east drink Guinness. People in the south and the west drink Murphy’s and Beamish. There is strong controversy. Profess your preferences accordingly.
• Cookbooks that seem to be in every kitchen: A Ballymaloe Cookbook by Darina Allen, and one (or several) of Jamie Oliver’s Food Revolution cookbooks. Nobody really cooks from the Jamie Oliver cookbooks, but they make fantastic gifts. Just like chocolate, wine, and cheese.
• Don’t bother bringing a sleeping bag to Ireland. It takes up loads of space, and you’ll never use it. Nobody will let you sleep in anything that makes it seem as if you’re camping when under his or her roof. You will be offered a duvet, which is exponentially nicer than a sleeping bag or normal blanket.
• Learn how to stuff a duvet into a duvet cover. Duvet stuffing is a lot harder than it looks (or sounds), but people here seem to possess some sort of trick that helps speed up the complicated, tedious process. Find an experienced duvet stuffer and try to learn their secrets.
• Lidle, Tesco, and Aldi are the cheapest places to shop. They’re German and English companies though, so if you want to support Ireland while living on a budget, you should probably shop at Dunne’s or Supervalu. For cheap Irish clothes, try Penny’s.
• Grow to love or grow to tolerate the Jack Russell Terrier. Everyone has at least one. I’d say that there are three super-popular dog breeds in Ireland – the Jack Russell Terrier, the HOUND, and the Labrador Retriever. The Jack Russell Terrier dwarfs even these two dogs in its immense numbers, though. So if you want to travel Ireland by living with strangers, acquaintances, and friends of acquaintances, be prepared to love their Terrier. Don’t worry, though – as long as you’re not up on a horse, the terriers here seem very easy to love. I nearly kidnapped Roisin’s terrier, problematic puppy passports be damned.
• Buy waterproof boots. Do not think you can get around this one. I bought a pair of Rocketdogs, which are absolutely fantastic thus far. They’re just as cozy as Uggs, but not quite as clunky.
• Buy wool socks. You can get really thick, comfortable socks at just about any store. Next to the potatoes, umbrellas and the chocolates.
• Buy a wool hat (or get me to make you one J).
• Make good use of scarves. I have not had a scarf of my own during my visit to Ireland, but I’ve certainly wanted one.
• It really doesn’t matter how cheap/unstylish your clothes are as long as you have a nice jacket and cute boots. Because that’s most of what people see here. Invest in your wardrobe accordingly.
• In a pub, if you cannot afford to buy everyone else in your party a drink, don’t accept a drink from them. This works out a bit differently for us broke volunteers, but as a general rule, people expect you to buy your round.  People know that I’m not able to afford a round of drinks, so they’re incredibly generous with me.
• Even if you don’t enjoy cooking, say that you do. Culinary prowess really seems to be the key to an invitation to stay at most peoples’ homes. If you aren’t particularly experienced at cooking, just learn a few impressive recipes that you can repeat relatively inexpensively for each new host. If it’s a cultural recipe, all the better. More and more people seem to be leaning towards vegetarianism/veganism these days, so make sure that one or two recipes in your repertoire accommodate these lifestyle choices.  
• You will get a really strange look if you attempt to put the eggs into the fridge.
• Get used to really narrow, windy roads. Also, realize that the drivers saluting you as they whiz by aren’t mistaking you for someone they actually know – everyone does a one finger salute in the countryside of Ireland, and it’s considered a little rude if you don’t salute or wave in return. I must have mildly offended a good many drivers before I realized that I couldn’t possibly look like that many different people.
• Appreciate the AGA. Not only does it warm the entire house, it will dry your clothes in no more than two days.
• Learn how to live without a dryer. No one has them here, and as it’s never sunny, drying clothes can sometimes be quite an ordeal. However, the clothes last longer and hanging them up to dry above the AGA is much more energy efficient. Just be intelligent about how you wash your clothes and avoid putting ALL your warm clothes in the wash at once. I've only made this mistake once thus far, and I do not see myself repeating it in the near future.
• Don’t be afraid to talk about the weather. It isn’t space-filling chitchat here. Inclement weather plays such an integral part of life in Ireland that people really do go on about it. It’s a major topic of conversation – be you a friend, an acquaintance, or a stranger off the road.
• Never arrive early. It’s rude. People aren’t ready for you yet. Learn to relax when people are late and stop taking everything so damn personally -- because it has absolutely nothing to do with you. Ireland is a culture of strong tea and conversation. This cultivates tardiness. Find a hobby (knitting is nice) to occupy you while you wait.
• If you don’t adore wind, stay on the east side of Ireland. I adore wind, so I found walking around Dingle to be an exhilarating, wonderful experience. Some might find the 100 mph wind a bit much, but I think it's grand.
• Thank the bus driver. Not only is it part of the culture here, it's a nice thing to do.
• If you plan on hitchhiking, make sure all of your bags are waterproof. You never know when you’ll get absolutely drenched. People in Ireland are really good about picking up vagabonds, so don't worry about not getting a ride -- just make sure that you're not dropped off on any of the motorways. If a Garda catches you walking along one of these roads, it's a 90 euro fine. Oof. 
• Buying bus tickets online is only fifty cents cheaper than buying at the bus. Not really worth it.
• Museums are always free in Ireland. Most are closed on Monday and they seem to close at least 15 minutes early on most days that they're open. 
• Try the smoked fish. I was disappointed to see so little sushi on this island, but the smoked salmon and mackerel are really superb.
• Grow to appreciate leggings. You can’t wear dresses or skirts without them.
• If you’re looking for humanely raised meat, go for the beef and lamb before the pork and chicken.
• TK Max is a great store to get relatively cheap, somewhat good quality clothes. All sorts of deals.
• Cabinets and closets are called "presses."
• Most people are very well informed on the "X Factor" TV show. 
• They make it very easy to buy too much chocolate.
• Learn to appreciate cow art. It’s everywhere. I’ve seen at least five gigantic cow statues in main squares and there are endless galleries entirely devoted to depicting the cow in all its subtly different forms. Grazing cow, content cow, confused cow, in your face cow, etc.
• People here do not say, "Have a nice day." Only Americans say, "Have a nice day." People in Ireland might respond to this perfunctory greeting somewhat negatively, asking, "What the hell do you care about my day?"
• People are generally really friendly. Never hesitate to ask for directions. However, if you're trying to strike up a conversation in a pub, do your best to avoid mentioning that you're American.