Meeting Medusa -- Istanbul, Turkey

It's the last day of 2013. As per use when in Beylikduzu, I'm sitting in the silent Pucca café. The waiters are now so used to my presence that I was addressed with a goodhearted, clumsy "good morning!" when I took my seat next to the outlet in the corner.

"Good morning. Salep?"

"Salep, tamam."

I've just passed a phenomenal weekend in Istanbul. I know that I've been complaining about the weather and being lonely and moody during the holiday season, but weekends like these spent with kids like Dilara and the highschool students from Çapa make me feel like the sacrifices I make are infinitesimal when compared to all I get to learn and experience through this way of life.

Dilara and her father picked me up from our meeting point in Asia side promptly at 13:00 and we drove back to their spacious apartment. I helped the inquisitive, independent girl with a school project, she introduced me to more of her favorite musicians, we ate gluten-free meatballs (köfte) for lunch, whipped up a tiramisu and then dived into her English homework.

Dilara is a budding little chef.

Dilara's little brother doesn't speak any English (yet), but he was determined to be involved in all tiramisu related adventures. Can't say that I blame him.

I spent Sunday morning at the Coffee Point café in Çapa, guiltily indulging in yet another sublime hot chocolate.

It's cold outside. That always justifies hot chocolate. 

Cesim picked me up around noon and we drove to Beylikduzu to meet the rest of the family. Seher and Ayse cooked up a very Turkish dinner of celery root salad, homemade pickles and chickpea with beef stew.  

I scarfed down the meal much more quickly than I would have liked (it was definitely something to savor), thinking that the airport guys would be calling in a few minutes to whisk me away to the café for our lesson. However, due to sickness and poor communication, the lesson was canceled. I stretched out my waistband and galumphed down the hall to the spare room.

I don't have the energy to write or the space in my stomach to practice yoga... errmm... watercolor. Yes. I want some to spend this evening in nice, peaceful meditation. 

In general, my Turkish family seems impressed and amused by the postcard project. Ayse came into the room to hang up laundry during this painting and laughed, saying something in Turkish that I couldn't understand. Seher's laughter floated in from Öykü's bedroom. "She is asking, 'You could paint anything -- why would you paint a bug?'" "'Cos it's... it's a memory," I stammered defensively. "It's a memory of my friend Terril, and I really like it."

Memory of Jean-Cyril, my couchsurfing host in Paris.

I boarded the metrobus at 9:45 on Monday morning, bound for Ümit's school in the city center. My host had scheduled an outing with five of his colleague's students.

"It is a competition, now. They want to see who can show you the most places."

And these kids. These wonderfully enthusiastic, friendly kids (who'd all done quite a bit of research in preparation for the excursion) showed me some absolutely stunning parts of Istanbul.

We started off in the Grand Bazaar --

-- quickly journeyed on to the Blue Mosque (which was closed, but still spectacular) --

-- delved underground into the Yerebatan Sarnici --

I have to admit... this is my favorite place in Istanbul so far.

So many koi! and the kids gave me a coin to toss over my shoulder and make a wish.

The tear drop pillar. It is common practice to stick one's thumb into a hole in this pillar and make a clockwise circle with the hand. If I understood correctly, this action is done out of respect for the dead. But I could have understood incorrectly. 

Break out the mirrors -- Medusa is around the corner! Ah. I love mythology so much. This sign made me giddy.

According to the sign: The Milion Monument was the starting point of the great Roman road, Via Egnetia, and was the reference point for measuring all distances on it.

The kids treated me to a meat and vegetable lunch with the Blue Mosque looming in the background. 

More notes on the mosque

The magnanimous group presented me with a bracelet to ward off the evil eye and asked me a few prepared questions.

I asked the group to write down a few of their favorites. I like making lists of favorites. 

Favorite Turkish foods: Manti, Dolmas, Karniyarik

Favorite Turkish musicians: Teoman, Tarkan, Gökhan, Sertab Erener

Favorite drinks: Ayran, serbet, ice tea and cola

For the day's final activity, we set off to the Piere Loti.

Riding a gondola made me think of the gorgeous mountain town of Telluride. I felt happy and homesick at the same time.

Yoga on the edge of the hill. There were some very concerned onlookers.

We drank Turkish coffee and one of the girls read our fortunes. Again, my fortune revealed a ring. And money. And a baby. Dear Turkish coffee, Aimee does not believe in marriage, would be a horrible mother, and would have no idea what to do with an abundance of money. Except buy plane tickets and become a certified acro yoga instructor.

we rode the crowded tram back to Çapa together. Then the kids hopped off and I continued on to Beylikduzu.

What an amazing adventure. 

A great big thanks to Ahmet (named after some king or other), Buket (whose name means "flowers"), Gökay (sky moon), Bahar (spring) and Kubra (grow). You were all loads of fun and gave me a glorious afternoon. Keep practicing your English! I believe you all have the talent, courage and enthusiasm to be perfect.